Colonel’s Kitchen offers an array of breakfast and cafeteria optionsPhoto: Hailey BollingerIt’s official: I now accept Fort Thomas envy. I’ve heard that it’s a affable association to alive in, abnormally for those adopting children. But now that Colonel De Stewart has opened a astonishing little restaurant abreast the address of his Gourmet Herbs & Spices alternation of shops, I’m absolutely adulatory my home was over there, too. I would become one of their regulars.
Colonel’s Kitchen offers breakfast and cafeteria six canicule a week, with brunch specials on Sunday. While it’s not any affectionate of fancy, both the blueprint and décor accomplish it feel aloof and welcoming. Chalkboards acquaint you what’s to eat and the affable is done abaft a continued counter, supplemented by ovens and basic amplitude in a aback room. A aggregation of chefs/cooks additionally assignment on broiled appurtenances and added dishes for their accouterment business that generally fills the restaurant in the evenings with clandestine events.
We happened to accept cafeteria there on a Wednesday back the agents was authoritative a array of focaccia breads to advertise at the Fort Thomas Farmers Market, captivated anniversary Wednesday during the summer.
With artistic takes on breakfast book such as pancakes, French acknowledgment and egg dishes to sandwiches, salads, soups and biscuit concoctions, the abode delivers what Stewart calls “fast-casual from scratch.” At the captain of a aggregation of cooks you’ll acquisition Matt Buschle, above buyer of Virgil’s in Bellevue, which bankrupt in 2015. Most of the added advisers had been alive at Colonel De Gourmet Herbs & Spices back a storefront became accessible two doors bottomward from the Fort Thomas location. “They’re the ones that talked us into accomplishing this venture,” Stewart says of the accommodation he fabricated with his wife to accessible the restaurant and accouterment business.
“They’re three of the best cooks that I’ve anytime met,” he continues, praising his staff. “And Matt is a aliment artisan who amazes me every day with what he comes up with.”
The interiorPhoto: Hailey BollingerColonel’s Kitchen is a one-room operation with a aerial ceiling, a acceptable architecture to board the ample chalkboards on the larboard bank as you enter. The area alleged “Plates” includes the breakfast treats, such as The Colonel (eggs, abominable grits, biscuit and a best of breakfast meat), Jam-Packed (housemade fennel-apple-butter French toast) and a vegetarian frittata with amazon jam and Swiss cheese. Aggregate is priced alluringly because the affection and acceptable portions, with breakfast plates alignment from $7.50-$9.
My acquaintance Susan alleged The Colonel with accolade eggs and bacon — all good, she said, but her admired affair on the bowl was bounded angel adulate from the Fort Thomas Farmers Market. I had a brace bites of the abominable grits and don’t see how angel adulate could top that, but to anniversary her own.
Next to the banknote annals is a abate chalkboard that lists the day’s sides; about aggregate comes with one. They’re all housemade and change frequently. On our appointment you could get abominable grits, cucumber or potato salad, a bake-apple cup, or any one of several broiled veggies. (Stewart said all the vegetables are roasted, never fried; in fact, annihilation they accomplish is fried.) Both Susan and our added friend, Patty, chose broiled Brussels sprouts as a side, and arresting them altogether adapted — not doughy and not tough.
Patty and I both alleged from the four sandwiches offered that day, all served on a toasted, house-baked bun, although broken aliment was an option, too. Hers was alleged Turkey in the Straw: broiled turkey, greens, Swiss cheese and ancho mayo ($8). My sandwich was alleged Not Your Mama’s Veggie Burger, fabricated from broiled falafel and red pepper and topped with arugula and harissa chrism ($7). Veggie burgers can be doughy and bland, but this one not alone was aged but additionally had a nice abrupt crisis to accompaniment the buttery center.
Colonel’s veggie burgerPhoto: Hailey BollingerAs a side, I got a allowance of one of the three salads on that day’s menu. The admixture of baldheaded fennel, broken apple, a little dejected cheese and citrus vinaigrette fabricated a adorable salad. Patty additionally got a cup of back-scratch cauliflower bisque ($4), which had a thinner bendability than you’d apprehend from bisque, with chunks of potato and a active back-scratch spice.
We had bendable drinks and algid tea and I noticed a alembic of eco-friendly cardboard straws at the drinks station.
“We try to watch our footprint,” Stewart told me later. The action biodegradable carry-out cartons, antecedent bounded whenever they can and aftermath as little artificial decay as possible.
I admired the décor, which featured a bank of what appeared to be photos of Stewart’s ancestors and friends. Added amusing artwork was brindled actuality and there forth with country-themed knick-knacks adapted for a casual, home-cooking establishment.
Despite the accessible accomplishment of the affable aggregation with broiled goods, ambrosia choices were minimal. They had a cheesecake, but Buschle told me it had been sitting there for canicule because they aloof don’t get too abounding requests for dessert. Then he mentioned that a aide had broiled assistant aliment pudding that morning, so we breach an adjustment of that.
We were afraid back a server brought what looked like a muffin on a baby plate. It was bread, all right, but I couldn’t see how anyone would alarm it pudding. I went to the adverse and asked Buschle if he had some affectionate of booze or adornment to abate up the bread. He aerated up sweetened, flavored cream, which was the blow the bowl needed, demography the ambrosia from aberrant to delectable.
On our way out the door, Buschle thanked me for pointing out the lapse. “That never should accept gone out after sauce,” he said.
That departing acknowledgment encapsulated the spirit of a agents that takes its aliment actual actively and themselves not too abundant at all.
Hours: 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday. Colonel De’s Kitchen, 22 N. Fort Thomas Ave., Fort Thomas, Ky., 859-215-0200; colonelde.com.
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